Tuesday, September 15, 2009

How To Repair Damaged Hair - Part 2




Styling Tools and Manipulation

Vigorous manipulation in combination with using the wrong styling tools can lead to breakage in just one pass through the hair. Keep in mind hair that is already chemically treated is already vulnerable to breakage.


Always remember to never run or manipulate your hair "against the grain". This means to keep movements downward, from root to tip. Combing upwards, or teasing, lifts the delicate cuticle. The next pass through, regardless of direction will break the cuticle exposing the cortex. Breakage is almost inevitable at that point.

Avoid metal combing tools. Seamless combs, natural boar bristle brushes, bone combs, and quality ball tipped paddle brushes are ideal for black hair, relaxed of natural.

Denman makes quality brushes for all hair types, lengths, and purposes. I find their boar/nylon brush combo a bit too much for my relaxed hair, but this may be an ideal combination for natural hair.


Heat Damage

Heat damage was one I have personally suffered from and I paid dearly for it. I was constantly reminded of the damage I'd inflicted on my own hair everyday. The welcome parade of dandruff and breakage on my shirts and pillows was a constant reminder. I just did not know any better! 

Heat from styling tools can damage the hair by utilizing these tools too often and at too high of a temperature. This heat can boil the moisture within the hair creating bubbles. These bubbles can burst permanently destroying the hair and resulting in breakage.



Most styling tool manufacturers recommend temperatures for their tools, but in my opinion, it is still too high. Relaxed hair should not need to exceed 320 degrees to achieve a desired look. Black natural hair should not need to exceed 360 degrees to straighten. These temperatures are both within the medium range on most tools.

Heat softens the keratin within the cortex of the hair allowing your hairs texture to change temporarily. The difference in temperature could mean softening the keratin safely, or completely breaking it down. This is why it is vitally important that people who use heat should incorporate moisture and protein treatments into their regimens. Supplementing broken down keratin is necessary when practicing techniques on how to repair damaged hair.

Alternative Styling Methods

Roller setting, braid outs, twist outs, weave extensions, wigs, "doobie wraps", bantu knots, and pin curls are the most common options for styling the hair when dealing with how to repair damaged hair. Yes, some of these methods may take longer than blow drying and flat ironing. Believe me when I tell you that your hair will thank you for it.


These are pictures of my preferred styles. I pin curl my hair to maintain curly styles or give my straightened hair a nice "bump". I can also roller set my hair on large rollers and wrap nightly to maintain the bend. Lastly, I can go full body with curls from a roller set. My hair maintains moisture, shine, and bounce for days with all of these styles.

It is fun to experiment with alternative styles. But I'm the versatility of African American hair can still be chic while we learn how to repair damaged hair.




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