My Airdrying Method

Air drying is more complicated than you would like to think. You would think that after conditioning your hair that you can add a leave in and a little oil or serum and keep it moving. Not really...

There are many things to consider when air drying:
1. What products will work for me?

2. How can I protect my ends?

3. How long will my hair take to dry?

4. How can I prevent frizzies?

5. How can I smooth down my hair?

6. What are my styling options?

7. How can I prevent breakage?

Well, let's discuss!

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Updo Hair Style Tips

I love, love, LOVE updos! They are my secret to salvaging a set gone wrong. *Shhh, don't tell anybody.*  

Truth (always) be told, if you see me in an updo, that means my original hair style didn't work out as planned. I always have a plan B.

Last week, I set my hair after using a new product combination of WEN and ORS Repleneshing Pak. Well, between the two of those, my hair was too moisturized! It wouldn't hold squat! This is what my set came out looking like!>>>>>>>>>>>

My hair was too heavy and my curls had already begun to fall. But I didn't do all of that work for nothing, so I grabbed some bobby pins and started twisting and pinning.


To create this look, I simply grabbed each section of hair that had been rolled and did a very loose flat twist. I twisted each section clockwise 2-3 times and secured it with a bobby pin allowing the curled ends to be loose. No additional product was used. I positioned mine towards the crown of my head, but you can position it anywhere. Try positioning them to the side or make a low messy bun. Dress it up with accessories!

The idea is to look messy, so don't make any additional parts or use any other tool besides your fingers. Twist and pin. Twist and pin.

For maintenance, unpin one section at a time. Take that section and form a regular flat pincurl to maintain the curl. Sleep in a bonnet or on a satin pillowcase. In the morning, simply take the pincurls down and start twisting and pinning again. Fun and easy!

Not to worry, I will be making a video soon on how to create this look for the visual learners!

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Moroccan Oil Intensive Hydrating Mask

Where to buy: Special salons and some online bss and retailers

Price: $27-$30/8.5 oz

Ingredients: Water, Cetyl Alcohol, Linseed (Linum Usitatissimum) Extract, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Behentrimonium Chloride, Argania Spinoza Kernal Oil (Aragan Oil), Cetrimonium Chloride, Methylparaben, Fragrance Supplement, Butylphenyl, MethylPropional, Coumarin.

They say: Moroccanoil Intense Hydrating Mask 8.5 oz (250 ml) Argan Oil Enriched. This highly effective mask...is a Rich, Creamy treatment, designed to hydrate and repair damaged hair; with continued use. It also revitalizes hair, restoring shine and manageability. Dare to try the hair care product that will hydrate, repair, and restore the lifeless hair. All of this is possible with the Moroccanoil intense hydrating mask. Through continued use, this deliciously rich, creamy treatment was specifically designed to repair and hydrate the most damaged hair. This powerful product is highly effective for restoring shine and manageability. From short, curly locks to long, brittle hair, women everywhere can transform their hair into luscious, soft tresses. Perfect for all hair types, the intense hydrating mask will be sure to beat the blah hair blues. Say 'goodbye' to dry, unhealthy hair, and say 'hello' to gorgeous, healthy tresses

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Back to the Basics: Roller Sets

My hair has been on a much needed R&R. I have gone back to the basics in my hair styles. I've been receiving more breakage due to my impatient detangling methods. Understand that my hair has not been this full and long since...oh...high school and before that 6th grade. So I'm not accustomed to having all of this hair to deal with.

My most progressive months during my hair journey was during my consistent rollersetting days. I washed, dc'd and set my hair twice a week. For daily maintenance, I wrapped or pincurled it while applying only a mist of JCS leave in and a few drops of JCS Hair Nourishing Serum-if that. My low maintenance, low manipulation (for me) regimen kept mechanical breakage at bay and my hair looked and felt great.

I've been doing alot of air drying lately since my discovery of the braid out and just being plain lazy or rushed for time. But I'm ready to enjoy my hair in big curls so its back to setting! What makes the process even more enjoyable is that I can play DJ Hero while I'm under the dryer! The time flies then!

Keep in mind, it wasn't the act of roller setting that helped my hair it was what it allowed me to do is what truly matters. And that is this method allowed me to get smooth curls that last without tangles and lots of manipulation. Tangles and manipulation are prime factors of breakage coupled with dryness and you're asking for a sink full of little hairs.

Another forgotten factor in rollersetting breakage is too much tension when rolling. Don't roll so tight that your hair dries and snaps. You'll know this happened if you unroll your hair and your ends come out with it. The best method of proper tension is one introduced to me on Healthy Textures, and that's the "roll, roll, pull" method. The results are smooth hair with no tension breakage.

So the key is doing what style method works for you to minimize breakage. Fighting with roller sets week after week is counterproductive. You'll find yourself overmanipulating fragile wet hair. Also, try to do to much to dry, damaged hair will be counterproductive. So when you admire someones hair who roller sets often, keep in mind that hair must be, at minimum, moisturized and strong enough to take the manipulation needed to set the hair. Don't rely on styles alone to get your hair healthy.

I think everyone should have a "fall back" regimen like the one I've described. When your hair needs a rest, what's your fall back?

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Exercise Pays - Literally!

Woohoo! I found $10 while jogging outside today! I'm in the moneeeey! Actually, I just donated it to my marathon pot. So thank you to the unintentional anonymous donator!

:-)

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Kenra Moisturizing Shampoo

Where to buy: Folica.com, Ulta, most salon quality bss.

Price: $12.00 / 10oz bottle

Ingredients: Purified Water, Sodium Myreth Sulfate, Sodium C14-16 Olephin Sulfonate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Cocamide MEA, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Extracts of Rosemary, Chamomile, Horse Chestnut, Sage, Horsetail, Nettle, Lemon Balm, Coltsfoot Leaf and Birch, Glycol Distearate, Polyquaternium-10, DMDM Hydantoin, Imidazolidinyl Urea, Citric Acid, Fragrance, FD&C Yellow No. 5.

They say: Kenra Moisturizing Shampoo gently cleanses without drying hair, and replenishes and adds softness to dry, damaged hair. This product also improves the manageability of coarse, textured hair.
As I've run out of my beloved KeraCare Shampoo, I moved on to finish my bottle of Kenra MS.

I say: My thoughts are that this shampoo is decieving. I've kept a strict regimen to make sure the focus of my results were due to this shampoo alone. I did not change my products up and experiment with anything new during the month I used this.

The bottom line is that my conditioners did not perform the same effecting my overall styling results. My hair felt good shampooing with it, but drying was another thing. My towel blotted hair was frizzy and my styles didn't last as long. When my hair starts to feel stiff and coated, I wash my hair again. And during my trial of this shampoo, I found that I threw my big bun up faster than normal. No matter if my style was air dried, rollerset, or in a braid out.

So, Kenra Moisturizing Shampoo is a no go for me. KeraCare and CON Detangling are still my top two!

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How To Determine Moisture Retention?

A quick cheat I use to determine if a product really imparted moisture into my hair is to air dry my hair loose with just a scarf around the edges if need be with minimal product. I add only leave in and a few drops of serum.

If my hair dries to about 80% within an hour and a half, I know my hair was not thoroughly moisturized. If it's been at least 4 hours, better yet overnight and my hair is still damp and cool, I know I'm retaining moisture like crazy. The product will definitely graduate into staple status.

So if you need to evaluate your products performance, try airdrying with minimal product and see how long it takes for it to dry. Trust me, your hair will dry faster with some products than others. This technique can also help to determine porosity issues.

Happy drying!

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KeraCare, Oh How I Love Thee!

Last year, KeraCare was not the business with me. As with my previous post, my hairs focus was rebuilding with protein. Many popular moisturizing products did NOT work for me. I liked the old Humecto, but I hated the tub formula and I LOATHED the old leave in formula. It was an immediate no go.

Well, I decided to give it another go after acknowledging my hair has gone through a 180 this past year. Definitely a turn for the better, nonetheless.

I shampooed with Kenra Moisturizing Shampoo with no prepoo. While applying Humecto, I was seriously doubting this watery conditioner could give my hair the moisture it needed back. But I did like that I could easily spread it to my new growth. Nevertheless, I put a plastic cap on and my shower bonnet on and relaxed for an hour.

***I've always experienced this with only Humecto (old and new forumla), but my shower cap is always filled with water when I remove it that I know I blotted out prior to applying the product. This conditioner retains moisture like no other I've used.***

My hair had great slip when rinsing and it felt slick and sealed. I applied KeraCare leave in with a little hesistation. I really hated the old formula. But NO! My hair felt great. I applied a dime sized amount of Fantasia serum and tied my silk scarf around my edges. I opened up The Shield Season 7 on Netflix and began to airdry.

My hair dried buttery soft. My hair has NEVER dried so fluffy, smooth, silky, and the scent is lovely. The only downside is that I couldn't keep my hands out of my hair.What I love most is I have very little product on my hair. I hate weighing my hair down with product.

So I'm excited to have KeraCare 1st Lather poo, Hydrating Detangling poo, Humecto, and leave in on my staple status. I really hope these products work for me during the transition!

Everyday I'm noticing that when it comes to products, it's about what they can do for my hair when my hair needs it. 

YES!!!

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Protein or No Protein? That Is the Question!

There is a common stigma that protein is bad. This is not true. The key is that we as individuals must understand when our hair needs it. We must understand this balance of protein and moisture is key.

Common symptoms of too much protein in hair regimen:
~ Dull, lackluster hair
~ Stiff hair with little to no sheen
~ Brittle, crispy hair with no elasticity or stretch

For balanced hair, the best time to use protein (if any) is prior to:
~ direct heat usage
~ chemical applications (color, relaxer, texturizers, etc.)

Hair that is suffering from chemical damage needs protein to restore elasticity, strength, moisture absorption, and to fill in the holes of structural damage to the strands. There are different strengths or protein and each need is different. Understand your needs, knowledge, and evaluating your hair on a consistent basis will yield the best results.

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Support During the Transition

I spent the weekend sneaking on my iPhone in between spending time with the SO looking at natural hair pics (mostly Curly Nikki). Well, I got busted and divulged I planned on going natural. The mutual friend that introduced us has a head full of gorgeous natural hair so he knew exactly what I meant. I admit, I was momentarily nervous about his reaction.

He is totally cool with it, but doesn't understand why I need to research it. When I tried to explain the difference, I saw birds chirping behind his eyes. LOL Too cute, either way, I have his support. He sees me looking crazy all of the time anyway so if I have some bad hair days in between this transition, he'll be alright. lol

My mother is natural and supports it, although she was very suprised when I told her about it. A few of my other girlfriends are excited for me. One is natural and I didn't even know it. (Her hair is always in a weave.) So for the people closest to me, I have their support and they are just as excited as I am. I know I"ll need the support in the coming months.

And thank you for YOUR support! It does not go unnoticed! :-)

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Moroccan Oil Treatment

Where To Buy: Folica.com, salons, most online beauty supply stores, Amazon.com, etc.

Price: High! $30-$38 for 3.4 oz

They Say:
For hundreds of years Argan oil has been used by women in Morocco to treat hair and nails in order to counteract the effects of the hot climate. The Argan tree, found only in the South West of Morocco called Argana; blossoms in the desert-like conditions and produces fruits much like olives yet larger and rounder. Inside the fruit grows a large nut that houses up to three almond-shape kernels which are the source of this miraculous oil.
Features & Benefits:

• Controls frizz
• Protects hair from environmental pollutants
• Hydrates and detangles hair
• Softens thick, unruly hair
• Restores shine and softness
• Strengthens dry, brittle hair
• Nourishes hair damaged from chemical procedures
• Nourishes and balances the scalp
• Strengthens hair's elasticity
• Powerful antioxidant, rich in vitamins
• Can be used on wigs and hair extensions
• Not tested on animals
• No animal ingredients
• Amber bottle protects oil from oxidation and degradation

Ingredients: Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Butylphenyl Methyl Propional, Argania Spinoza Kernel Oil (Argan Oil), Linseed (Linum Usitatissimum) Extract, Fragrance Supplement, D&C Yellow-11, D&C Red-17, Coumarin, Benzyl Benzoate, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone.

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Transitioning Game Plan

In order to make this transition go as smoothly as possible for the next year, at least, I'll be employing basic maintenance.

I'm really not a weave person as I've never received a weave that I liked...ever. I also like to play in my hair so that's the least likely method of transitioning for me.

This is also a means of comparison in the future as I'm only 6 weeks post right now. I'm curious to see if this plan will actually work.

I plan to:
~ Continue my prepoo, shampoo, protein (as needed), DC, leave in, seal, style regimen.
~ Use braidouts, flexirods, curlformers, buns, and the occasional flat iron as styling options.
~ Continue using my Megatek or Ovation Cell Therapy on my scalp at least 3 times a week.
~ Transition for a minimum of 18 months before I start trimming off relaxed ends.
~ Pay more attention to moisturizing and deep conditioning my new growth.
~ Stop buying products that I use now because it's highly likely these products may not work for my new growth. (Yikes!)

So far this is the outline and I will add and take away to it as needed.

Tick tock...

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Thoughts of a Transitioner

I'm excited and nervous at the same time about transitioning. I'm excited at the possibilities, but nervous because of the unknown - my true texture. I wonder how I would look with natural hair, how others would respond, and if I would be able to maintain it. I think these are all questions and concerns transitioners have posed to themselves at one point or another.

I'm playing in my 6.5 weeks post roots right now and it scares me, lol. My roots feel coarse. So unlike my relaxed ends coiled and wave into a braidout bun. I know that my natural texture is not that of Traycee Ellis Ross *sigh* so I don't have unrealistic expectations.

Is there a possibility I won't like what I see under the relaxer? Sure. Will I make it work? Sure. As long as I can get my hair straight, I'm good. I already know that I would be straightening my hair ever so often as a natural, so that's the measuring stick. As long as I can straighten it to my liking, I'll continue the transition.

Only time will tell....muah

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Renice's Natural Update: Hair Porn Alert!

Ooooooh I'm soooo jelly! This is why I harbor a secret jealousy for naturals! With proper care, they are so versatile. Look at her scalp!!! Ugh.. I have to get off of the computer before I shave my head.

I would definitely be a long time transitioner. Long meaning, 2-3 year transitioner, lol. My head is too big for short cuts. It's not happening.

I think the key to Reniece's healthy hair is low manipulation. She kept her hair in weaves during her transition.

In How To Repair Damaged Hair - Part 2, we discussed styling manipulation and mechanical damage. This is damage that is self-inflicted on our hair. Combing, brushing, rollers, pins, flat ironing, hand-in-hair syndrome, anything that comes in to contact with the hair has the potential to cause mechanical damage if not done with care.

Another popular member on Long Hair Care Forum, Sylver2, is known for her long, very thick hair. She also adopts a very low manipulation regimen.

It really isn't necessary to do alot of our hair, but if you're anything like me, you like to switch your style up frequently.

If breakage is a concern for you and you find that it happens often during styling, opt for a low manipulation regimen. Choose a style that you can maintain for a week like a rollerset or flat ironed style and keep your hands out of your hair!

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The Jealousy Must End

If you can read between the lines (or simply read) you know I am publicly jealous of naturals. The thick, lucious kinky-curls, the versatility from curly to kinky, to wavy, to straight. And best of all, the scalp is generally healthy.

Another reason is that my favorite styles are curly styles. I'm always doing textured styles. When I roller set my hair, I almost always keep it curly. I love braidout buns-so does the SO. (He's always checking to see if my hair is curly or I get the side eye.) And when I get new growth, I am always playing in it.

I'm super curious to see what my real texture is like. Since I love "doing" my hair, I think I'd like the challenges of finding different products and techniques to bring out the best in my natural texture.

But actually, my primary reason for wanting to go natural was my last relaxer experience. And while this was not the first time I've had a chemical burn, this was the first time a professional stylist was the cause of it. I figure I can burn my own scalp! So, I'm honestly gun shy of going back.

So in 2010, I will be transitioning. I'm praying I can stick it out. I hope that I don't run into any setbacks and that I can have a long, relatively safe transition to natural. I've always been secretely putting together a game plan for transitioning and now I think I'm ready to put it into effect.

Over the next few days, I'll be putting the final touches on Transition 2010!

Wish me luck!

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Stick 2 It! Challenge Ends!

We closed 2009 by ending the Stick 2 It! Challenge on the Hair2Toe Beauty forum!

We committed to sticking to a set product line for our individual regimens for 30 days in order to truly gauge the benefits of those chosen products and to use up some stash.

Here is the regimen I committed to:

Weekly wash:
Prepoo: Coconut oil
Shampoo: Keracare Hydrating Detangling Shampoo
DC: Jane Carter Solutions conditioner
Leave In: Giovanni Direct Weightless Leave In
Setting Spray: Jane Carter Solution Natural Hold Spray Gel
Serum: Moroccan Oil Treatment

Maintenance: (2 times weekly)
Jane Carter Solution Scalp Nourishing serum
Jane Carter Solution Leave In
Jane Carter Solution Hair Nourishing serum

Extras:
Megatek (to scalp daily with applicator bottle)

Here's what I learned:
I also learned that my hair does not care for coconut oil as a prepoo and that it is best used on air dried hair. My hair also prefers the Pantene Set Spray for softer sets I plan on combing out, but the JCS Natural Hold Spray was better for curly styles.

I'm glad I gave KeraCare Hydrating Detangling shampoo its time to shine because I love it next to my CON shampoo. It's DEFINITELY a staple now.

And of course my JCS conditioner never failed me. I find this conditioner is the best for my curly styles as my curls hold better than when I use heavier conditioners like Joico MR. Before when I was texlaxed, I required heavier conditioners, now that I'd gotten a corrective relaxer (although not bone straight, still straighter), my hair doesn't care too much for really heavy oils and conditioners anymore.

I am really still on the fence about Moroccan Oil. I just can't seem to justify the price. So I won't be repurchasing it in the future. I'll stick to Sally's knock off version Argan Oil if the need strikes me to buy it again. I prefer good old Fantasia IC Shine Polisher serum.

So, while my results each time weren't optimal because of the prepoo, serum, and my preference for Pantene R&N Set Spray for doobies, they were consistent.

Overall, I'm happy to have used up a lot in my stash and now I know what I need to restock as staples!

Those that made the cut are bolded above.

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January Member of the Month: Annitra

Meet Annitra from Virginia!

3 Favorite Products -  Mizani Botanifying shampoo, Mizani Moisturefuse, Aphogee 2 Minute Reconstructor

Hair regimen –

My hair regimen stays the same although I like to switch up products from time to time.

Prepoo

Shampoo

Protein when needed. (Usually once or twice a month)

Deep condition for 30 to 45 minutes with heat

Creamy leave in

Air dry in plaits or roller set with magnetic or flexirods and sit under dryer

Cowash twice a week

I stretch my relaxers 6 months at a time. During the 6 months; I only use direct heat about 3 times; if that. I love protective styling.

When and why did you start your healthy hair journey?

Well you would have thought that I would have been done with my stylist when she gave me a Mizani relaxer and didn’t rinse it out good resulting in my nape being damaged or putting a rinse in my hair and when I left with a Cherry Cola jazzing stain running down my forehead; but that didn’t stop me from going. LOL .I got serious about taking care of my hair in July 2008 when I read a hair article that Gennifer Miller posted on AOL Black Voices.

What is the best piece of advice you've gotten to obtain healthy textured hair?

1. Textured hair needs Moisture. 2. Detangle from tip to root. 3. Do what works for you and be consistent. 4. Patience is a virtue.

Join Annitra and many more ladies with thick, healthy hair at Hair2Toe Beauty Forum!

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